Gobble Gobble Gobble: How to Cook a Perfect Thanksgiving Dinner

Every family develops their own set of traditions when it comes to celebrating holidays.  It may be a set of decorations, a special activity that you do every year as a family, or a special meal that is prepared,   Often, its these little things that you remember from your childhood that stick with you.  Part of the fun of being a young couple or new family, is taking elements of each others' family traditions and combining them to make them your own.  In our case, holidays have always revolved around food.  Luckily for me, my husband comes from a family that loves cooking as much as my own and we have a thick book of old family recipes that have been passed down through the generations.

Pete, getting close to our turkey, Thanksgiving 2002.  It was our first Turkey-Day together and we cooked a full meal with all the fixings in the dormotory kitchen. 

Our Thanksgiving dinner incorporates elements from both sides of our family.  Every year the menu changes slightly, but the core dishes always remain the same.  We usually start cooking in the morning, snack along the way, watch a few movies, and finally settle down to eat sometime in the late afternoon.  Everyone has a job to do, and even the little ones help get the meal to the table.  While preparing such a massive meal can be intimidating, with a little planning, some cooking in advance, and a good attitude, you can create a delicious Thanksgiving meal and turn the cooking process itself into a fun family tradition.  If you are looking for some new ideas for your own Turkey-Day meal, here are some of our family favorites and some useful tips!

Thanksgiving 2003.  A very proud Pete shows off his bird.

How to Cook a Turkey

1.  There are a million different ways to cook a turkey.  People debate different cooking techniques - high temp or low temp, deep fry or roast, to brine or to not brine - but there is only one way to really screw up a turkey.  OVERCOOK IT.  Many people are squeamish about under-cooking poultry.  Erring on the side of caution, they overcook their bird and the result is a dry and rubbery meat that no one really enjoys.  I mean, is there any wonder why most of us only cook a turkey once a year?  So, to safely cook your turkey without torching it, make sure that you have a functioning meat thermometer.  Insert the thermometer into the thickest part of the thigh (but avoiding the bone).  If it reads 165 degrees, your turkey is done.  Cover it with foil and allow it to rest for at least 15 minutes (the temperature will rise another 5-10 degrees).

Sean and I; Thanksgiving 2008.  We brought Ryan home from the hospital that morning - we had a lot to be thankful for.

2.  If you purchased a frozen turkey, make sure you begin defrosting your turkey, in your refrigerator, 3 days in advance (more if you intend to brine it).  If you forgot to take your turkey out of the freezer, the fastest way to defrost the bird is to put it in the sink and cover it with cold water. 

3.  While brining your turkey is not a necessary step, I do recommend it. Brining is an easy way to add moisture and flavor to your turkey.  What is a brine?  At its most basic, a brine is a salt-water bath in which you soak your meat, but you can add all sorts of seasonings to the brine to gently flavor your bird.  Remember that day in high school biology when you learned about osmosis?  Well, brining is a perfect example of it.  When the turkey is submerged in the salt water bath, moisture moves from the water to the turkey and back to ensure equilibrium.  As the salt water moves into the turkey, it brings with it all the salt and seasonings into the meat.  The result?  A really yummy bird.  So, the day before Thanksgiving, submerge your bird in whatever brine strikes your fancy (this is my favorite).  We usually brine in a cooler or a large bucket and then leave the turkey in our garage - don't worry about bacteria - the ice in the brine plus the cooling weather should keep it cold enough.   Plus, bacteria hate salt (which is why we use salt to "cure" meat).

Morello Family Stuffing

After brining your turkey, you could just truss that sucker and stick it in the oven.  My husband's family, however, has a tradition of stuffing their bird.  Many people have concerns when it comes to cooking stuffing inside the cavity of the turkey.  If you do not feel comfortable stuffing your bird, you can always bake the stuffing or “dressing” in the oven alongside your turkey.  However, stuffing cooked inside the turkey really is delicious – it is easily the best part of our Thanksgiving meal and it is always the first item to be completely consumed.  As long as you follow a few simple guidelines, you can enjoy your delicious stuffed bird without worrying about potential health concerns. 

1.  Cook the stuffing.  All ingredients in a stuffing – meat or vegetable - must be fully cooked prior to going into the turkey to avoid health risks. 

2.  Stuff the turkey just before you intend to roast it.  Unfortunately, this is not something that can be done in advance the night before.  Allowing the stuffing to sit in the raw turkey for a prolonged period of time allows bacteria to grow. 

3.  Both the stuffing and the turkey have to reach 165 degrees before it is done.   Using a stuffing can often slow down the cooking time, so give your stuffing a head start by putting into the turkey cavity while it is hot.

Ingredients:

4 large loaves stale French bread, crust removed with a serrated knife and cut into 1-inch cubes
2 large Spanish onions, finely chopped
2.5 lbs. 85% lean, grass fed beef
1 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
6 eggs
1 carrot, diced
1 celery stick, diced
1 cup red table wine
1 stick butter
1 tsp Allspice, or to taste
Salt
Pepper

Directions:

Soak the bread cubes in water for a few minutes.  Drain into a colander, pressing the water out with your hands.  Set aside.

In a large sauté pan over medium heat, heat ½ cup of olive oil.  Add the onions and carrots and cook until softened, but not browned.  Add ½ cup red wine to the pan and allow to reduce slightly.  Remove the veggies with a slotted spoon and set aside.

Melt a tablespoon of butter in the same sauté pan.  Add the ground beef and brown, crumbling with the back of a wooden spoon.  Season the meat with 1 tablespoon of allspice.  Return the vegetables to the pan and add the other half cup of wine.  Allow the wine to reduce slightly.  Remove from heat.

Beat the eggs in large mixing bowl.  Add the bread mixture to the eggs and mix until well blended.  Fold the meat mixture into the egg mixture. 

If you are stuffing your turkey, spoon the stuffing into a cheesecloth bag and place inside the turkey cavity just prior to roasting.  If you are not stuffing your turkey, pour the stuffing into a ceramic dish, cover with aluminum foil and bake at 350 degrees for 45 minutes to 1 hr. 

Cranberry-Pear Relish

This recipe comes from my mother - the balsamic, orange juice and ginger add a nice twist to an old classic.  This can easily be made ahead several days in advance.

Ingredients:
2 cups sugar
½ cup orange juice
¼ cup balsamic vinegar
1 piece peeled, fresh ginger
1 cinnamon stick
2 bags of cranberries
2 firm, ripe, medium Bosc Bears, peeled, cored and cut into bite-sized pieces

Combine sugar, orange juice, vinegar, cinnamon and ginger in saucepan and bring to boil over medium high heat.  Add cranberries and pears; heat to boiling while stirring frequently.  Reduce heat to medium low and cook for 15 minutes or until most cranberries pop, pears are tender and relish thickens.  Discard ginger and cinnamon, spoon relish into serving bowls and refrigerate 3hours -4 days.

Pumpkin Cheesecake with Caramel Sauce

Pumpkin pie is great, but sometimes you just want something a little different.  Well, that's what I thought when I first tried this cheesecake and now it is an annual Thanksgiving staple.  You can use store-bought caramel sauce, but you can easily make your own by following Ina Garten's simple recipe.

Crust:
2 cups finely ground gingersnap cookies
2 cups toasted pecans, finely ground
1/4 cup firmly packed brown sugar
1/4 cup butter, melted

Filling:
4 (8-ounce) packages cream cheese, softened
1 2/3 cups granulated sugar
1 1/2 cups canned solid pack pumpkin
9 tablespoons heavy cream
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground allspice
4 large eggs
caramel sauce

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Make the crust.  Combine ground cookies, ground pecans and sugar in bowl; add melted butter and mix until combined. Press crust mixture onto bottom and up sides of a 9-inch diameter springform pan with 2 3/4-inch-high sides. Set aside.

Using electric mixer, beat cream cheese and sugar in large bowl until light. Transfer 3/4 cup mixture to small bowl; cover tightly and refrigerate to use for topping. 

Add pumpkin, 4 tablespoons whipping cream, cinnamon and allspice to mixture in large bowl and beat until well combined. Add eggs one at a time, beating just until combined.

Pour filling into crust (filling will almost fill pan).  Place a pan of hot water on a rack below the cheesecake - this will help to ensure that the cake cooks evenly and prevent cracking.  Bake until cheesecake puffs, top browns and center moves only slightly when pan is shaken, about 1 hour and 15 minutes.  Then, instead of taking it out of the oven, turn the heat off and open the oven door and continue to let the cake hang out there for awhile. This will keep it from deflating in the center as it cools.  Transfer cheesecake to rack and cool 10 minutes.

Run small sharp knife around cake pan sides to loosen cheesecake. Cool. Cover tightly and refrigerate several hours or overnight.

Bring remaining 3/4 cup cream cheese mixture to room temperature.  Add the remaining 5 tbs whipping cream to cream cheese mixture and stir to combine.  Press down firmly on edges of cheesecake to even thickness.  Pour cream cheese mixture over cheesecake, spreading evenly.  Spoon the caramel sauce in lines over cream cheese mixture.  Using tip of knife, swirl caramel sauce into cream cheese mixture.  Release pan sides from cheesecake and serve.

Come Home to Mamma! Pan Roasted Halibut with Red Wine Butter and Soft-Centered Chocolate Cakes

It happens every year around this time.  Sometimes it holds off until Thanksgiving.  But most of the time, it starts around the end of October...and once the holiday craziness begins, it doesn't stop until January 2nd.  Of course, it's all fun stuff, but our calendar tends to a get a little full come this time of year.

First among the celebrations was our anniversary at the end of October.  Typically, we like to go out to dinner just the two of us.  This year we were hosting a neighborhood Halloween party the following night, so instead we decided to keep it a low key evening at home.  Still, my husband, Pete, managed to surprise me and give me exactly what I wanted: a SIGNED copy of Cory Schreiber's Wildwood: Cooking from the Source in the Pacific Northwest.  Needless to say, it was the perfect gift.

Pete had to be out of town for work for a few days last week, so I decided to cook something special from the book to welcome him home.  At first I was concerned that the strong flavors of the red wine butter would overpower the delicate taste of the halibut - but it didn't!  In fact, this dish is a perfect example for why the old rule that you cannot drink red wine with fish is so wrong!  The red wine butter itself can be made well in advance and will keep in the fridge for several days (or in the freezer for several weeks).  While a Pinot Noir or French Burgundy is perfect for this meal, any red wine that you love will do.  We rounded off the meal with some individual soft-centered chocolate cakes for a perfectly decadent evening.  Enjoy!!


Pan-Roasted Halibut with Red Wine Butter and Red Potatoes

Adapted from: Cory Schreiber's Wildwood: Cooking from the Source in the Pacific Northwest.  Ten Speed Press.  First Edition (March 2004).

Ingredients:

Red Wine Butter:
1 cup Pinot Noir
1/4 cup red wine vinegar
4 tbs room temperature unsalted butter
Two heads of garlic
2 tsp of thyme leaves, minced
1 tsp salt
1 tsp pepper

2 lbs small red potatoes
2 1/2 tsp salt
1 tbs flat-leaf parsley, minced
4 halibut fillets
2 tbs olive oil
1 bunch kale, stemmed and cut into 1-inch wide shreds
Freshly ground black pepper to taste

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.  Remove as much of the white papery exterior from the garlic as possible, making sure to keep the head in tact.  Wrap each in aluminum foil and bake in the preheated oven for 1 hour.  Let the garlic cool completely before taking apart the head and squeezing the roasted garlic from each individual clove.  Set aside.

Combine the wine and vinegar in a small saucepan and bring to a boil.  Reduce the heat and simmer until reduced to a syrup (15-20 minutes).  Let cool.  Blend the butter, garlic, thyme, salt, pepper and reduced wine mixture in a food processor.   Set aside.  This can be made in advance and refrigerated.  Make a

In a large pot, cover the potatoes with cold water and add 2 teaspoons of salt.  Boil the water, reduce the heat, and simmer until the potatoes are tender and can easily be pierced with a fork.  Drain and toss with 2 tbs of the red wine butter and the parsley.  Set aside and keep warm.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.  Melt 1 1/2 tbs of the wine butter in the microwave or a small saucepan.  In a large ovenproof skillet, heat 1 tbs of olive oil over high heat.  Season both sides of the halibut with salt and pepper.  Place the fish in the hot pan and cook for about 4 minutes, until it releases from the pan.  Flip the fillets and baste with the red wine butter.  Transfer the skillet to the oven and cook until the fillets are opaque throughout (7-10 minutes).  Remove from the oven and cover loosely with aluminum foil to keep warm.     

While the fish cooks, heat the remaining olive oil in a large skillet, add the greens and stir fry until wilted.  Season with salt and pepper to taste. 

Melt the remaining wine butter and spoon over the halibut.  Plate and serve with the potatoes and greens.



Soft-Centered Chocolate Cakes

These come together quickly, so you and chocolate cake are never far from each other.  They are great with a scoop of your favorite ice cream, or just by themselves.  Serve them straight out of the oven and be careful that you do not over-bake them, or they will loose the moist center.

Ingredients:
2/3 cup unsalted butter
5 oz. bittersweet chocolate, chopped
2 whole eggs plus 1 egg white
3/4 cup sugar
1/2 cup sifted all-purpose flour

Preheat an oven to 350°F. Butter the bottoms and sides of four 1-cup ramekins. Dust with flour, then tap out the excess.

Melt the butter in a small saucepan over medium heat. Turn off the stove and add the chocolate. Stir until all the chocolate is melted and smooth.

In a separate bowl, whisk together the whole eggs, egg white and sugar until blended.  While whisking, slowly add the chocolate mixture and combine. Gently fold in the flour and divide among the prepared ramekins. Place the ramekins on a baking sheet and bake until they are puffed and cracked on top (25-30 minutes).

Let cool a minute.  Then, one at a time, loosen the cake from side of the ramekin and carefully invert onto a dessert plate.  Turn right side up and let it cool for a few minutes before serving.  Scoop up your favorite ice cream and you are good to go.

Adapted from Williams-Sonoma Foods of the World Series, San Francisco, by Janet Fletcher (Oxmoor House, 2004).

Home Away from Home: an Oregon Girl Cooks Salmon

After more a decade of living the life of a nomad, I have discovered that I can be happy living almost anywhere: east coast or west coast, big city or small town, red state or blue state. While I may have mastered the ability to find the positive within every living situation, there is no denying that I am an Oregonian through and through, and always will be.

I recently returned from a two-week trip out to Portland, Oregon to visit my family. Portland summers are nothing like the ones we have here in New Jersey - it's cooler, drier, more temperate and BUG FREE. So we spent a lot of time outside with the kids, hiking, biking, swimming and playing.

We also did a lot of eating. In my family, we usually start planning our next meal before we finish the one we're enjoying. As I come from a long line of foodies, we spend much of our quality time together talking about food, shopping for food, preparing food, and stuffing our faces with food. My dad is my partner in crime. When I was a teenager he seriously contemplated abandoning his medical career for that of a professional chef. One weekend working in a restaurant kitchen cured him of that fantasy, but could not diminish his zeal for great home cooking.

Since we were on vacation, we tried to take it easy and not be too scheduled. We could not possibly plan multiple meals in advance because we did not know what we'd be doing or how much time we'd have to spend in the kitchen or what we'd be hungry for. So we pretty much went to the store every single day. Grocery shopping in Portland is actually enjoyable (even with kids) when it means I can go to New Seasons, a locally owned and operated chain of stores specializing in locally raised meats, produce and dairy products. They buy directly from Pacific Northwest farmers, ranchers, creamery co-ops, vintners, brewers, and coffee roasters. The result is fresher and more sustainable food, all while supporting local businesses. So while I was visiting, we made our daily pilgrimage to New Seasons in search of inspiration and many delicious family meals were the result.

My Dad and Sean, on the deck, enjoying one of many family meals together.

Since we got back, I've been suffering from more than a little bit of homesickness. So to make myself feel better, I decided to cook a classic Pacific Northwest meal - Salmon! There are so many good ways to cook a piece of salmon: boil it, bake it, grill it, it all tastes delicious. When the fish looks really good, I am always tempted to just go minimalist - salt, pepper, lemon, and 10 minutes under a broiler - I swear you can actually taste the river in the fish. Still, every now and then, you want to try something a little different.

This recipe comes from Wildwood: Cooking from the Source in the Pacific Northwest, by Cory Schreiber. Schreiber opened his restaurant, Wildwood, in Northwest Portland in 1994 and won a James Beard Award in 1998. It has long been a family favorite of ours and when I spotted the book on my dad's shelf I instantly wanted to stuff it into my suitcase. You see, my dad and I have a ritual where I search through his voluminous library of cookbooks and convince him to let me "borrow" as many as possible. Most of the time, I smuggle a few home, gush to him on the phone about how delicious the food is and guilt trip him into letting me keep them. He buys himself another copy and we're both happy! When it came to Schreiber's bible of Pacific Northwest cooking, I knew it was not getting on the plane with me, no matter how much I begged and cajoled. So instead, I spent the better part of two days furiously copying by hand as many recipes from the book as possible. This was one of the first that caught my eye. We served it with a bottle of Evolution, Lucky Edition, from Sokol Blosser Vineyards in Oregon's Wine Country. I'm home already!


Salmon Steaks Braised in Grape Juice with Whipped Potatoes and Horseradish


First, how to prep a salmon fillet:
1. Run your fingertips up and down the center of the flesh, feeling for tiny bones. If you find any, use a pair of tweezers to yank them out.

2. Beginning at the tail end of the fillet, work the edge of a sharp, long and narrow slicing knife between the flesh and skin. If you don’t have a tail end, start at one corner of the fillet and work your way in until the knife is between the skin and flesh all the way across one short end of the fillet.

3. With your free hand and (use a paper towel for better traction), grab the just-freed end of skin and pull on it as you run the knife down the length of the fillet in the opposite direction. Keep the knife angled slightly down toward the skin, and use a slight sawing motion if necessary. The skin will hopefully come off in one piece.

Ingredients:

For the Potatoes:
1 lb red bliss or yukon gold potatoes, halved
2 1/2 tsp salt
1 cup milk
1 tbs butter
1 tbs horseradish
1 tbs fresh chives, minced

For the Salmon:
2 Tb olive oil
4 salmon steaks (8-10 ounces), or fillets (6-8 ounces)
1 1/2 tsp salt
fresh ground pepper
2 1/2 cups white grape juice
1/4 cup chardonnay
1 small red onion, cut vertically into thin crescents
1 cup seedless green grapes
1 tsp fennel seeds
1/4 cup minced flat leaf parsley
2 tbs butter
2 tbs fresh lemon juice

Cover the potatoes with water. Add 1 tsp of salt and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer 20-25 minutes or until fork tender. Drain and let stand for 5 minutes. In the meantime, heat the milk and 1 tbs of butter. Mash the potatoes in a stainless steal workbowl, season with 1 1/2 tsp salt and pepper. Gradually add the hot milk, whipping until light and fluffy. Fold in the horseradish and chives. Set aside and keep warm. (As a side note, the easiest way to keep the mashed potatoes warm is to set the stainless steel bowl over the pot of boiling water in which you cooked the potatoes. Stir it every ten minutes or so - you can probably keep them there a solid 30 minutes).

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. In an oven proof skillet large enough to hold the salmon, heat the oil over medium heat. Season the salmon with salt and pepper. Add the salmon and brown for 3 minutes on each side. Remove and set aside.

Wipe out the pan and add the grape juice, wine, onion, grapes and fennel seeds. Bring to a simmer. Return the salmon to the pan and braise in the oven for about 20 minutes for steaks and 10 minutes for fillets, or until opaque throughout. Remove and keep warm. (But do not overcook! When cooked properly, the salmon will flake easily with just a fork. When salmon is overdone, it takes on a rubbery texture).

Return the pan to the stove and bring the sauce to a simmer over medium heat. Stir in the parsley, butter and lemon juice. Cook for 1 minute.

Portion the potatoes, place the salmon on top, and spoon on some sauce.

Enjoy!

Smokey Turkey Burgers with "Confetti Corn" and Roasted Asparagus

My grandmother is a woman who knows what she wants. When it comes to food, what she wants is a burger. Forget the seared sea scallops or black truffle gnocchi - when we go out for a meal, a good old fashion hamburger is the one menu item guaranteed to capture her interest. A big, juicy, red-meat-loving burger, with french fries on the side. If you knew my grandmother, you too might find this entertaining, as she is a 4'11", 91-year old, Chinese woman with the appetite of a bird. Lucky for me, she is full after about three bites and then pushes the plate across the table saying "you finish it."

As much as I share my Nana's penchant for a good burger, I have made a conscious effort in the last few years to severely limit the amount of red meat that I eat (for a variety of health and political reasons). So lately, whenever my husband and I start craving a quarter pounder, I have started making turkey burgers. Admittedly, you will never be able to make 99% fat free turkey taste like a beef patty. Still, this more than satisfies my burger craving, and its particularly good with a couple slices of a nice, ripe Haas avocado and a beefsteak tomato. For a good, homemade veggie burger, check out my friend Natasha's blog, The Brassica Diaries.

Confetti Corn
2008, Barefoot Contessa Back to Basics

Ingredients

- 2 tablespoons good olive oil

- 1/2 cup chopped red onion

- 1 small orange bell pepper, 1/2-inch diced

- 2 tablespoons unsalted butter

- Kernels cut from 5 ears yellow or white corn (4 cups)

- 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt

- 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

- 2 tablespoons julienned fresh basil, minced fresh chives, and/or minced fresh parsley leaves

Directions

Heat the olive oil over medium heat in a large saute pan. Add the onion and saute for 5 minutes, until the onion is soft. Stir in the bell pepper and saute for 2 more minutes.

Add the butter to the pan and allow it to melt. Over medium heat, add the corn, salt, and pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, for 5 to 7 minutes, until the corn just loses its starchiness. Season to taste, gently stir in the basil or other green herbs, and serve hot.

Roasted Asparagus

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

Arrange asparagus on a baking sheet, drizzle with olive oil, and season with salt and pepper. Roast for 25 minutes, until the asparagus is tender but still crisp. Sprinkle with parmesean cheese and serve.